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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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Feature Archive 'Recipes'

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03.24.08

Onions

Food History, Recipes


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The allium genus includes some of my favorite purveyors of flavor, including garlic, shallots, leeks, scallions, and onions. It is hard to imagine cooking without these fragrant, vibrant plants. And in fact, no one has ever really had to, because wild members of the allium genus grow worldwide. That’s why, even though onions as we know them arrived with European explorers, we still ended up with Indian words that refer to a place where wild onions were causing a stink: the Potawatomi word checagou, which means “place that stinks of wild onions,” and the Menominee word shika’ko, which means “skunk place,” which actually referred to the smell of the wild onions. We’re not sure which of these words was the derivation of Chicago, but the point is, there were a lot of wild onions growing here long before domesticated onions made it over with European settlers. More »

03.17.08

Cucumbers

Food History, Recipes


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In the United States, when one speaks of “gourds,” the thing that seems to come most readily to mind is something inedible that shows up in centerpieces around Thanksgiving time. But the gourd family is large and varied, and it includes a number of very edible members, including melons, squash, and cucumbers.

Cucumbers are among the world’s oldest cultivated vegetables. Archaeologists have found evidence of cucumbers growing around human dwellings dating to 7750 BC.—and that places cucumbers pretty close to the dawning millennia of agriculture—at least until the next big dig finds something earlier, as seems to be the case these days, with increased interest in and research of early foodways. But at present, it looks like we’ve been intentionally growing cucumbers for nearly 10,000 years. More »

03.05.08

Chicken Salad’s Imperial Pedigree

Food History, Recipes


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Of course, before there was chicken salad, there had to be mayonnaise—today, perhaps the mostly widely used and least respected of France’s great sauces. There are a few stories about the creation of mayonnaise. The most common and widely accepted story is that it was invented in 1756 to honor the victory of French Admiral La Galissoniére and Louis François Armand de Vignerot du Plessis, duc de Richelieu, who had commanded the siege against the British at Port Mahon in Minorca. In whipping up a victory feast, Richelieu’s chef created a new sauce to celebrate the occasion. The sauce was dubbed Mahonnaise, in honor of the Duc’s victory at Mahon. This tale seems likely both because the date corresponds to the world’s initial awareness of the sauce, and because there are regions where the name is still pronounced Mahonnaise. An alternate version of the tale is that Richelieu’s chef simply took with him to France a sauce he discovered in Mahon. There is also a claim in some parts that mayonnaise is connected in some way with the town of Mayenne. However, whichever tale is true, mayonnaise as we know it was developed by the French. More »

02.26.08

Feeling Your Oats

Food History, Recipes


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Sowing your wild rice. Feeling your millet. Hmmm. Things are just not the same without oats, are they? Actually, in recent generations, oats have enjoyed a better reputation than they have occasionally had in the past. Now that it has been discovered that oats are incredibly good for you, with abundant soluble and insoluble fiber, they are practically revered. It was not always so. More »

02.22.08

Dreaming of Chocolate Mousse in Epinouze

Food Memoir, Recipes


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We had the fortune of sampling the best chocolate mousse of our lives from Sunday Dinner Catering co-founder Christine Cikowski about a month ago. We asked Christine to share the recipe. She obliged, but, even better, she gave us the story behind the recipe.

Jason (my business partner and boyfriend) and I lived in the Rhone Valley, in a little town of 900 people called Epinouze, about 1-1/2 hours south of Lyon off the A7 autoroute. For three months we worked for Jean-Jacques Galliffett, the de-facto local celebrity chef since he owned three restaurants in three villages, plus a hotel and a bar. Not that there was much competition- most of those villages had only one restaurant, one bar, and one tobacco shop. But Galliffett was talented- his food was really simple, a unique fruit based cooking style grounded in old world French techniques. Valrhona and Crozes- Hermitage, the wine country was 20 minutes away. We lived in orchard country, so Galliffett cooked with what was grown in town. More »

02.21.08

Fun With Bacon and Marcona Almond Maple Syrup Brittle

Recipes


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I was at Whole Foods last night staring at a Vosges Mo’s Bacon Chocolate Bar, remembering how I’d devoured one in a single sitting the week before. Scared that I’d do the same again if given the chance, I ran away without buying a bar. Then an hour later as I was sitting on my couch, I was thinking I’d been a fool. I started dreaming of salt and sweet variations. With no chocolate on hand, but plenty of bacon and nuts, I though, hmmm bacon pecan brittle….oh wait, I have Marcona almonds, bacon marcona brittle…..of course I’m one of those dudes who drowns his entire breakfast plate in syrup, so if I’m goin’ bacon, I gotta have some syrup…and voila, recipe below. It’s rare that I have such good ideas. Now I’m thinking chorizo marcona brittle, or marcona almond brittle with a touch of smoked paprika…stay tuned! More »

01.10.08

Barley

Food History, Recipes


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The cultivation of barley pretty much dates back to the beginning of cultivation. Barley appears to have originated in the Ethiopian highlands up into southeast Asia, but had already spread out from its starting point by the time we first find it recorded in Egyptian hieroglyphics (around 5000 BC). It is listed on Sumerian cuneiform tablets that date to around 3500 BC, and was clearly being used in northwestern Europe by 3000 BC. Barley was identified as one of the “two immortal sons of heaven,” along with rice, in India’s Vedic literature, and it was listed as being among the five sacred cultivated plants of China by around 2800 BC. More »

12.21.07

‘Tis the Season for Swedish Rye Bread

Recipes


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Bread making seems particularly suited to cold winter days. This fragrant, slightly sweet rye bread is traditionally served at Christmas in Sweden. But don’t save this just for the holidays. It’s great for breakfasts and brunches throughout the chillier months. It makes a nice gift, too.

Rågbröd (Swedish Rye Bread)

1/4 cup molasses
1/3 cup sugar
1 scant Tbs. salt
2 Tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperature
Finely shredded rind of 2 oranges
1-1/2 cups lukewarm water
2 envelopes dry yeast
2-1/2 cups sifted wholegrain rye flour
2-1/2–3 cups sifted white flour

Mix together the molasses, sugar, salt, butter, and orange rind. Stir in the warm water. Sprinkle the yeast over the mixture, and stir until the yeast is dissolved. Add the rye flour, and mix with a spoon until it is completely incorporated. Add the white flour in half-cup amounts, switching from spoon to hands for stirring, as dough thickens. Add enough white flour to make a soft but manageable dough.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured board and cover with a dish towel or inverted bowl. Let it sit for 10 minutes, then knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic. Place the dough in a greased bowl and cover with a damp cloth. Let the dough rise until it is about double its original size (about 2 hours). Punch down the dough. Form it gently into a ball again and let it rise and additional 45 minutes. Punch down again, then divide the dough in half. Form the dough into 2 round loaves and place them on a lightly greased baking sheet. Cover the loaves with a damp cloth and let rise until double in size (about 1 hour).

Remove the towel. Place the baking sheet in a preheated 375 degree oven and bake for about 35 minutes. Cool loaves on a rack.
Notes: If you don’t have unsalted butter, use salted and reduce the additional salt by about 1/4 tsp.
Be sure to use warm water, not hot. Hot water will kill the yeast.

Depending on humidity levels, you may not need a full 3 cups of white flour.

When it is time to knead the dough, put a little flour on your hands, to keep the dough from sticking. It is also a good idea to keep the flour close by, so you can flour your hands or the board as needed, if the dough is still a little sticky.
When the dough is left to rise, it is best if it can be in a relatively warm area with no drafts. It should be cozy, not hot.

11.16.07

Talkin’ Turkey

Food History, Recipes


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Native Americans weren’t the only ones to get tagged as being from India. “From India” in French is “d’Inde,” and dinde (or dindon) is what the French still call turkey. In India, on the other hand, they call it peru, because that’s where they thought it was from. (Not a bad guess, given that the Portuguese had introduced potatoes and chilies from Peru, but still wrong—in fact, it appears that South America never had turkeys.) We call the bird “turkey” because the British either confused it with the guinea fowl, supposedly from Turkish territory, or got it first from Turkish merchants—we’re not sure which, but clearly, no one was identifying it with the Americas. More »

07.09.07

Waltzing Australia

Recipes, Travel


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If Americans think about the food of Australia at all, it probably doesn’t go much beyond Paul Hogan’s famous, “We’ll throw another shrimp on the barbie.” Well, they certainly have plenty of shrimp (or prawns as they are more likely to say down there) and even more barbies, but the country and its cuisine go far beyond that. Of course, there are the fabulous people, the fascinating scenery, the weird and wonderful wildlife, the glorious beaches and sophisticated cities—and those are all great reasons to go to Australia. However, I hope to convince that Australia is also a great dining destination. More »

05.29.07

Crabbin in Chicago

Bites: News and Miscellany, Recipes


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You’d think the revered concubine of the Scientology movement could afford a high-level food consigliere, someone to tell her where the truly best eats are. Instead, it turns out Mrs. Tom Cruise, nee Katie Holmes, probably listens to what some second-rate concierge at a high-priced Michigan Avenue hotel told her last time she was in Chicago. You see, according to last week’s People magazine, Holmes recently brought in frozen Gino’s East deep-dish pizza for the crew of her current film “Mad Money.” More »

04.18.07

Ramping Up

Bites: News and Miscellany, Recipes


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Wild leeks are kind of like the agricultural version of crystal meth. That’s not to say if you eat a handful of the green, leafy, white-bulbed veg that tastes like a cross between spring onion and garlic you’ll end up tweaked-out and toothless, selling your children in the Wal-Mart parking lot. But then again I’ve never smoked or snorted them. Maybe if you throw a couple of bulbs in some rolling papers and spark up, you’ll commune with the ghost of Julia Child and a Rockette-like dance troupe of truffle-stuffed chickens? More »

02.08.07

Salt Cod Recipes

Recipes


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Because of the importance of salt cod in the world’s economy in centuries past, there are numerous countries that have traditional recipes that use salt cod as an ingredient. These are not archaic recipes that one must search to find, but living recipes that are still a vital part of the cuisines in countries that once traded in cod, from the bacalhao of Portugal to the cod cakes of Newfoundland, the brandade de morue of southern France to the gesmoorde vis of South Africa to the fanesca of Ecuador. Europe, Africa, North America, the Caribbean, and South America all have recipes that use this preserved fish that was once among the most valued commodities in the world. More »

10.24.06

Cabrito Asado(Oven-Roasted Young Goat)

Recipes


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-1/2 baby goat, cut into parts (legs, side and breast)
-1 Tbs. oregano
-1/3 cup light olive oil
-1 large onion, coarsely chopped
-2 medium green peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped
-2 jalapeño chilies, seeded, deveined, and chopped (optional)
-1 tsp. ground cumin
-1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
-3 cloves garlic, minced
-4 cups of canned, peeled Italian tomatoes with juice (approximately 2-1/2 cans, 14.5 oz. each)
-salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.

Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper. Put the pieces in a large roasting pan and cover (foil works if you don’t have a lidded roaster). Bake meat for two hours, turning and rearranging the pieces after one hour. While meat cooks, prepare the sauce (salsa).

Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the onion, green pepper, jalapeños, cumin, pepper, and garlic, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are slightly wilted. Add the tomatoes (cut tomatoes in half if they are large) and simmer for 5 minutes. Season with taste with salt and pepper.

When initial two-hours are up, sprinkle the meat with the oregano, then bake uncovered for another 20 minutes.

Finally, pour the salsa over the goat meat and continue baking, uncovered, basting occasionally, for another 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then carve and serve. Serves 10-12.

Notes: Goats get tougher, stringier, and more strongly flavored as they age, so you want to make sure you get a young goat for this dish. It might be okay to stew a slightly older beast, but roasting needs a little tenderness, so be sure you specify baby goat. The recipe above assumes that your half goat will be about 9–11 pounds. If your goat is much smaller than that, you can adjust quantities downward. If it’s much larger, you probably want to stew it, because it will likely be tough. In the U.S., goat does not generally appear in the mainline grocery store meat case, but it can easily be obtained from ethnic grocers (Hispanic, Mediterranean, Eastern European, and Indian in particular), and can also be ordered on the Internet.

09.17.06

Shalada Bortukal-Moroccan Orange Salad

Recipes


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Ingredients

4 navel oranges
2 Tbsp. rosewater
3 tsp. granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

Method

1) Slice the oranges thinly and spread them on a platter (this can be done in stages, if you don’t have a large platter).

2) Sprinkle rosewater over the oranges. Next, sprinkle the sugar over them. Finally, sprinkle the cinnamon over the oranges.

3) Let chill for about 30 minutes. Toss lightly before serving. (If you want to make a presentation of this, chill oranges with just the sugar and rosewater, and then sprinkle on the cinnamon just before serving. You could also garnish it with a mint sprig.)

Notes

Get really nice oranges. The ones sold in the giant bags, where you get five pounds for $2, are usually not as juicy and flavorful as the ones that are sold individually.

As for the rosewater, pretty much any Indian grocer will sell it. It’s fairly common at the international stores, as well. Or you can find it on the Internet.

08.11.06

Getting Fresh with a Cocktail

Bartender, Pour me a Drink: Alcohol and Spirits, Recipes


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margaritaI’ve given cocktails short shrift. I’m a descriminating gourmand, who’ll travel a thousand miles just to eat a local specialty, but when it comes to the bar, I’m more likely to amble a couple of blocks, and ask for my old standby of bourbon and Coke.

Lately though I’ve been spending some time with bartenders who pursue mixology with the same dedication as top chefs. These guys are focused on seasonal ingredient driven cocktails filled with chopped farm fresh fruits and vegetables.

I don’t know why it took me so long to have an epiphany. Whenever possible I’m looking for farm grown heirloom tomatoes for caprese salads or local creameries for my milk, and yet I think nothing of using mixes full of corn syrup, sodium benzoate, shelf stable gums, and artificial colorings for my drinks. More »

04.26.06

Coffee Cream Éclairs

Food History, Recipes


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Eclair

In Boston, some folks consider the proximity of a Dunkin Donuts franchise when purchasing a new home. According to a short New Yorker piece last year, allegiances to a particular store can be measured in the number of steps it takes to reach the front door. More »

04.19.06

Snacking with the Drunken Chef:Sun-Dried Tomato, Goat Cheese, and Walnut Crackers

Recipes


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sund dried tomato

Drunken chefs like me need to have a little something to munch on with a bold glass of wine. This is an almost no-cook recipe, and it’s easy to assemble. Try it if you’re hanging out with friends or if you’ve got a last-second engagement. Don’t forget the wine…no matter what Paul Giamatti says in Sideways, skip the Lindsay Lohanesque overexposure of Pinot Noir, and pair this app with a Shiraz, maybe a 2003 Mclaren Vale, either the Tintara or the Tapestry. More »

03.31.06

Craft Dinner- Sans Kraft™

Recipes


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mac cheese

In our fast paced, never-a-spare-moment lives, having a recipe in your repertoire to bring everything back to home-base can be a life saver. Everybody knows the iconic image of the blue and white box with yellow writing. It’s been in everyone’s pantry at one time or another. When the moment arises when you can slow things down and look past the convenience of dehydrated cheese-food, home made macaroni and cheese is a dish that always satisfies. More »

03.13.06

Sir! Pork Belly, Sir! Hooah!

Everybody Loves Pommelo: Noteworthy ingredients, Recipes


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seared pork belly

My cozy domain was invaded by a former U.S. marine and his platoon of wife and twins and an onslaught of infant paraphernalia last saturday. I generally like to spend Saturday doing a lot of work around the couch, but this weekend it simply wasn’t to be.

There would only be one way to overcome the initial shock and awe of this incoming army of in-laws… More »


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