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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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03.05.09

You Talkin to Me?

Cookbook Reviews


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The first time I browsed through Andrew Carmellini’s and Gwen Hyman’s new cookbook “Urban Italian”, I was quickly turned off by what I took to be a bit too much attitude.

And yet, I’d heard nothing but raves about it in the NY Times, various food magazines, and online. The recipes all looked and sounded quite interesting. Accordingly, I cooked through a few and found them accessible, well written, and generally yielding good results. Naturally, I factored in my own cooking skills or lack thereof. But, still, I felt the book was a bit long on testosterone. I sat down to write a piece about this, but I just couldn’t finish it, until I gave Urban Italian a second look. Well, let me say, Mea Culpa……Mea Maximum Culpa (aka, my most grievous fault)! Sure, there are a few too many macho moments laced through the cookbook’s narrative. However, a closer reading reveals a fresh, honest perspective on what many would agree is the world’s most attractive cuisine.

In this book, Carmellini is emphatic about the fact that cooking consists of more than knife skills and technique. Cooking requires bringing something of one’s self to the table. Part of that “self” is raw ability or talent, and yet, experience is what really puts meat on the bone. To drive home this point, Carmeliini tells riveting stories of coming up through the food world, including lessons from his nonna, his formative cooking years, and of his several sojourns into the authentic foodscape of Italy. One of my favorite tales involves a porcini hunt with Carmellini’s friend’s father filled with Fellini-esque elements involving prostitutes and the gift of a few porcinis that ultimately ends up as a riff on Puttanesca sauce.

In addition to well-wrought tales, Carmellini also offers a few invaluable cooking caveats in this book. To begin, don’t stress out. If one only watched Top Chef or other such pressure cooked shows, it would be hard to imagine cooking as anything other than a torturous ordeal better relegated to military boot camp. Cooking is certainly warmer, more intimate, and more satisfying than that brow-beating ordeal.

Cooking involves all the senses. Carmellini encourages us to use them, not merely the ones that immediately come to mind. One needs to taste, smell, and yes, touch food to get a sense not only of doneness, but also of anticipation.

Work with what you have. Though recipes appear definitive, they are broadly open to interpretation. Carmellini suggests that the reader take liberties with ingredients, but to a degree supported by some sense of reason, be it taste, texture, reaction with other ingredients, etc. Recipes do not simply materialize in pristine form. They’ve been modified and subjected to both contrived and impromptu experiment. They’ve evolved. There’s little that is uniform in these recipes. That’s what makes them both accessible and respectful. Take liberties, but be thoughtful.

Visually, the book is a delight. Food is beautifully photographed including a really vivid simple elegant shot of purple highlighted artichokes backdropped by a slab of black granite.

Ultimately, a cookbook’s bottom line appeal is whether or not the recipes are enticing. Do you want to prepare them? Are you prepared to devote the degree of attention to the quality of ingredients the way the author does? Are you up for the quest? This doesn’t need to imply difficulty. Quite the contrary…The author’s Lamb meatballs with goat cheese, a wonderfully simple dish, is still robust and earthy and subtle, rather than haughty.

As one moves through the text, there are also sidebars offering valuable information and insights on a number of seminal Italian ingredients such as anchovies, ricotta, and polenta. Most offer a few historic facts, some amusing anecdotes, purchasing advice, and tips on preparation. For example, Carmellini notes that skimping on last minute finishes (specifically cheese, oil, and butter) on Polenta may to some seem like a prudent, contemporary nutritional dietary decision. Sadly though, these omissions essentially guarantee losing the dish… missing the culinary and perhaps even historical aspects that give the food meaning. People locked in poverty found it both redeeming as well as a grand joy to display a small measure of ostentation through a drizzle of floral olive oil, a generous handful of Parmigiana-Reggiano, and a fistful of sweet butter to finish their essentially humble pot of sustaining polenta. The stark, objective consideration of caloric content would have been a cold, indifferent, luxury to these cooks.

Finally, while fusion cooking is often regarded with suspicion these days, another strength of this book is that Carmellini does a good job of illustrating the finer side of merging culinary cultures, including acknowledging North Africa’s influences within Sicilian cuisine. He fearlessly makes Seafood risotto with Chorizo. While, Carmellini acknowledges this combo may not be authentic, the inclusion of Chorizo in a risotto provides an extra “punch” that might otherwise be lost when the shellfish is not still dripping with sea water, the sun is getting lower in the late afternoon sky, and the Lambrettas drone away like cicadas, as in Italy.

OK, is this book a keeper? You bet. More contemporary and energetic than its likely muse, the Union Square Café Cookbook, Urban Italian is a fast paced but straight forward encounter with Italian cuisine. It’s accessible. Recipes are not daunting. An appreciation for good ingredients is brought home loud and clear. Carmellini’s restaurant is the one place I’d love to dine at when next in NYC.

2 Comments on "You Talkin to Me?"

consumatron

I was lucky enough to attend an event for this book with Carmellini, and I have to say the testosterone punch doesn’t come across in his personality.

Also, the Short Ribs Braciole recipe from this book is in the top five recipes I’ve recreated from a cookbook over the last few years.



mark mendez

As a professional chef I usually don’t buy a cookbook for the recipes per se, I usually try to get a glimpse of the cook through his work.I find the greatest chefs tend to uderstand the need to put a part of their soul into what they do. I love it when chefs provide a backdrop or personal insight into certain dishes because it lets you into a small part of their life and gives that recipe more meaning and relevance. People always ask me for recipes and I reluctantly agree with the caveat that they drink a beer or glass of wine beforehand and share the food with someone they love or care about and not worry so much about getting everything technicaly(?) perfect. I think Andrew Carmellini understands this, which is why I respect him as a chef and why I also own his book.



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