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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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01.12.09

Probative Cuisine

Cookbook Reviews, Food History


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My wife Holly and I began amassing a sizable and comprehensive cookbook collection right after we were married in 1970 starting with a simple paperback, Italian Home Cooking. After many pleasurable meals on Hester Street on the lower east side of NYC, we brought home a modest book whose cover, in retrospect, looked like an outtake from “Goodfellas,” when Joe Pesci’s character comes over to his mother’s house at three in the morning with two associates after a particularly hard night’s whack. The photo shows Momma all too eager to load the table with pasta, sausages, peppers, a woven straw covered fiasco of Chianti, and good fresh bread.

And while Italian cookbooks represent the largest category of our collection, Jewish and Middle Eastern titles, which began with tattered paper sheets filled with our parent’s spins on traditional Ashkenazi recipes, are pretty close behind. What these books taught us, and as any knowledgeable food devotee knows and should know, is that the essence of Jewish cuisine lies in its almost unparalleled ability to adapt to the broad range of culinary cultures that have played host to its people over the past several millennia.

While East Coast, particularly New York City popular culture where the overwhelming majority of Jews traced their roots to Eastern Europe, standup comedians, and “When Harry Met Sally” have done much to drive the misconception that Jewish food is just corned beef and latkes, it just ain’t so. Thanks to the late Copeland Marks, Claudia Roden, Joyce Goldstein, Gilbert Marks, and others, their books revealed a much wider world of Jewish food infused by just about every cuisine we know. This is attributed to the Ashkenazi Jews who settled in areas other than Eastern Europe, and the Sephardim, the Spanish and Portuguese Jews, who once expelled from their home countries, spread throughout much of North Africa, the Middle East, South Asia, and beyond. Taken as a whole, the Jewish Diaspora is the quintessential migratory food roadmap in history.

One of my favorites, A Drizzle of Honey is certainly evocative of the passionate, colorful, and rich culinary period in Sephardic Jewish cuisine’s long, complicated journey. The book hasn’t really caught on, as it fails, however, to include that certain nostalgic glaze that has become the trademark of popular Jewish books, i.e the “Fiddler on the Roof” effect doesn’t reflexively kick in. To be sure, the recipes are exotic and “sound” delicious, though not all that familiar.

Despite the attractiveness of the culinary offerings in this book, the story surrounding them is terrifying. While the Jews have survived continuous waves of persecution over more than two millennia (common knowledge to all but a few career history revisionists, crazed shut-ins, and Iran’s President Ahmadinejad), the Spanish persecution, beginning with the forced conversion of Jews and Muslims in the 15th century to their eventual expulsion in 1492, was especially bizarre.

Beginning in the 15th Century, Spain aggressively converted large numbers of Jews and Muslims to Christianity. The alternatives were few to none. The converted or “new” Christians ranged from those who made their religious move with conviction to those who were less passionate, unable to cope with the estrangement from such a pervasive a faith and religious culture. The ruling authorities either through evidence or sheer paranoia, embarked upon a campaign to root out imposters as heretics and unrepentant. Setting up elaborate court proceedings, the Inquisition tortured, questioned, prosecuted, and eventually executed scores of alleged false converts.

What alleged heretics did not confess was provided in a unique form of probative evidence……food. “Hard” evidence relating to specific Jewish religious practices or a refusal to participate in Christian rituals or folkways was often in short supply. The evidence of inference rescued what was lacking in fact. People were interrogated and eventually prosecuted based on testimony from servants, neighbors, tradesmen, and even more religiously zealous converted family members. The testimony was often based on the foods prepared in the accused person’s home. Specific foods such as eggplant, the spices and mixtures, savory seasonings, chickpeas, an affinity for sweetness, and even the manner of preparation were all open to the inference that the accused was practicing his or her former religious faith. It should be noted that in many cases, these suspicions proved to be accurate. In others, they were at best circumstantial.

Many reviews cite A Drizzle of Honey’s recipes as lacking in flavor or technique. Others cite preparing the dishes as somewhat macabre. After all, how does one savor a recipe that was used as evidence to cause someone’s torture and execution? How does the late Mrs. Perez’s eggplant dish from 15th Century Spain bring us pleasure in the present? I for one do not see a contradiction here.

This book was painstakingly researched and written by historian David M Gitlitz of the University of Rhode Island. These simple recipes proclaim the cultural power of food. They are a testament to not only how much our foods reflect who we are, but also how much we need them for our own identities. The author no doubt had the greatest respect for his human subjects’ courage and innovation. Preparing these dishes might be the ultimate form of tribute.

A few curious ironies linger in modern Spanish cuisine. Some of the nation’s most prized and beloved dishes actually trace their culinary roots to the then reviled Moorish and Jewish recipes of the Inquisition’s victims. Cocido, the Spanish stew of central and northern Spain, consists of various meats, vegetables, and particularly garbanzo beans (chickpeas). Though sausages have found there way into the pot, the dish is a direct descendant of the Spanish Sephardic Sabbath dishes or “dafinas,” made on Fridays and cooked all night in the communal baker’s ovens over low coals for serving on Saturday’s Sabbath lunch. The use of saffron, cumin, coriander, other spices, and other legumes trace their origins back to both the Jews and Muslims who so thoroughly defined Spanish culture before the Inquisition.

So, it won’t kill you try Ms. Perez’s eggplant dish. Eat your vegetables; they’re good for you except when probative.

One Comment on "Probative Cuisine"

E L

Nice piece. I love seeing reviews of older cookbooks…so often they get lost in the constant stream of new glossies released. In fact, I just reviewed another old classic on my blog.

Thanks!



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