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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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12.01.08

Chef Michael McDonald: Out of Charlie’s Shadow

Profiles in Food: Interviews


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mmc

Not that being linked as Charlie Trotter’s right hand man is a bad thing, but it sure feels vindicating to stand freely on one’s own feet. Such is the case with Chef Michael McDonald, the Chicago-bred Luke Skywalker to Trotter’s Obi-Wan. After years of sharpening his kitchen technique under some master mentors, McDonald is ready to settle down and set up shop. His return to Chicago at one sixtyblue (succeeding Martial Noguier), after stints cooking across North America, is one of finality. This is his chance to rise from the celebrity chef shadow that may have been hunkering over his domain; his chance to prove himself to the masses, to himself, and perhaps most refreshingly, to Charlie.

Michael McDonald exudes a presence of calm dominance. It’s easy to feel engulfed by the aura of control that wafts in his wake. This dude’s tall, with such a buff stature it’s hard to believe he could have fit in any kind of chef’s shadow at all, whatever the level of domineering celebrity. But, no matter, he’s ready to step out. As he says, “It puts a lot of pressure on me,” he says, “and I want my friends to be impressed. I’m under my own umbrella now and we have things to prove.”

Immediately after we sit down to talk, the topic of Trotter’s kitchen arose. With a hearty guffaw, he exclaimed “That shit that just makes me laugh. The stuff that just stays in house.” Apparently, “shit” went down in the Trotter kitchen. “Shit” that evokes profound memories from this chef that uninitiated ears shall never hear. Not everything is out of bounds, though. He happily opens up about Charlie’s mentality, what he instilled in his chefs and some of the crucial preparations for working in his realm. “I don’t mind talking about the positive things,” he says, painting Charlie as one of the most driven chefs alive. He speaks about Trotter’s as if it were an elite fraternity of blood brothers, saying that “The average cook just wouldn’t have a clue what goes on over there. It’s not for everybody.”

The mentality of “make it happen” is what’s been etched the deepest in Michael’s mind upon leaving Trotter’s. He describes scenarios where Charlie would throw a curveball last minute, forcing his chefs to improvise, like one night when Michael accompanied a slew of guest chefs to cook dinner at Charlie’s house. Never mind all of the preceding days’ preparations for the elaborate meal, because lo and behold, at the last second, Charlie changed the menu and turned the evening on its ass. But working with Charlie, he recalls, “You make the impossible happen.”

Then there’s the Trotter philosophy that Michael strives to replicate. At the top of the list is the importance to “taste, taste, taste!” “You can’t make a sauce at 5:30 and assume it’ll taste the same at 8:30,” he explains. “With Charlie, everything that would go on the plate would be tasted. Thank God he uses a lighter style or I’d weigh 1,000 pounds.”

He remembers one day outside of Trotter’s seeing a garbage boy, the lowest on the Trotter totem pole, go to toss a bag of refuse. However, to merely chuck the bag is not the Trotter thing to do. And so the guy proceeded to double bag and double tie the thing, even under the impression that he was unwatched, so as to ensure top notch garbage removal. You see, working at this institution, no matter what you do, no one ever takes the easy way out. “It’s something hard to duplicate,” he says. “His philosophy is to be better every day. And he’s been doing it for 20 years, so it’s gonna take me some time.”

Over the past decade, Michael McDonald has established himself as Trotter’s right hand man; his go-to guy when he needed someone to run those distant offshoot kitchens. Fifteen years ago, he had applied to work at and was deciding between Charlie Trotter’s and Everest. Ever since he chose Everest, he had always wondered “what if.” “Years went on and I would occasionally run into Charlie. I would ask myself ‘what would it have been like to work for him?’” Then finally his moment came. While traveling in New York, after having come to the East coast to seek work in a different setting, Michael saw a sign that read “Charlie Trotter’s Coming Soon.” Not long after applying for the chef job in New York, he got a phone message from The Man. But this message wasn’t what he was expecting. Charlie had called to offer Michael the position of executive chef at his new restaurant in Los Cabos, Mexico: the One and Only Palmilla. At long last, he says, he could feel like he stifled the hypothetical “what if?” He says, “I feel like a professional athlete. Some people can play their whole career and never make it to the World Series. Now I feel like I’ve gotten the Superbowl ring, and no one can take that away.”

Now, after departures from spin-off restaurants C in Los Cabos and Charlie in Las Vegas, Michael is back in town and he can hardly contain his excitement. “I’d probably be more excited if it were June. I think I picked the wrong month to come back.” Chef Michael’s Midwest return comes with a promise: “I’m ready to stay and settle down.” That’s good news for the local farmers he can’t wait to establish relationships with, like “the guy who picks the cherries and the gal who finds the mushrooms.” He says exclusivity in menu ingredients is crucial to him, and he waxes nostalgic about a homely lady from downstate who runs an Asian pear farm. She’s also now the restaurant’s black walnut lady who harvests the nuts by driving over the massive shells with a truck to crack into their tender innards. It’s this notion of originality that drives Michael to seek out such regional growing paramours. “It’s not like looking through a fucking catalogue. I don’t wanna’ open an average can of nuts. I know what other people are doing and what they’re offering.”

Moving out from under Charlie’s metaphorical umbrella, Michael is in his own realm at one sixtyblue. He’s making the food that he likes to eat, making his high-concept cuisine more approachable and recognizable; more of a twice-a-week restaurant, less of a once-a-year special occasion. “First and foremost, I just enjoy the cooking,” he says. “I really enjoy working on the line and I pride myself on being the best cook in the kitchen.” And so now it’s out of the mentor’s shadow and into the fire. It’s probably only a matter of time before this debonair savant rises to echelons of famed success, ascending from Charlie’s “angel” to kitchen god.

one sixtyblue is located at 1400 W. Randolph, 312.850.0303

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