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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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09.30.08

Chowing with the Stars

Bites: News and Miscellany


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ravi

Paging Schwa…The Bristol seems to really like your quail egg ravioli so much they’ve sorta stolen it for their own

Last night the dining room at The Bristol (2152 N. Damen) had more big time ballers than an NBA all-star game. Stephanie Izard held court front and center alongside her season four Top Chef homey, Antonia, while kiddie corner to them Dave Beran, sous chef at Alinea, and John Peters, former sous chef at Alinea and former executive chef of Powerhouse, (turns out Peters is back at Alinea now - spoke to him last night) threwdown over some monkey bread and assorted vittles. I’m not normally one for gossip, but you just don’t often see this much culinary talent in one place, unless someone’s handing out free beer and pork…well, then again maybe they were, who knows.

Anyways, full details on the Bristol next week, but in short, I experienced some Schwa (egg and ricotta ravioli) and Mado deja-vu (communal tables, chalkboard menu, organ meat), the service for this level of casual restaurant is top notch, the cocktails were disappointing, and I had one of my best dishes of the year. It wasn’t even on the menu. I was totally disappointed that the sweetbreads were sold off during the weekend and that there were basically no “fifth quarter” goodies to be seen.

I kept asking about organ meats to no avail, but my server smartly conveyed this to the chef, returned and asked if I was interested in a chef improv on some pork liver, heart, tongue, and smoked pork butt? Does a vegan love tempeh? Hell yes, dude.

That being said the lightly seared pork liver slices were firm but not chewy, with a rich, tongue coating but not gamey finish. The liver was topped with bitter greans, roasted chanterelle mushrooms, toasted hazelnuts, and a fennel vinaigrette. We’re talking Fergus Henderson good here.

And yes, The Bristol has only been open a week (my apologies to Steve Dolinsky for engaging in the “arms race”).

2 Comments on "Chowing with the Stars"

Jeannie

He was at the Chicago Gourmet event last weekend and who couldn’t like his tee shirt, with a picture of a pig divided into Chicago neighborhoods on the back and their cards are made on recycled paper…..
My food radar sensed a good thing and glad to read about it here!!!!

JB



Audarshia

With all this pork everyone’s serving up these days, EVERYONE’S cholesterol is going to go sky high! I haven’t seen this much pork on dishes since I was a kid and ate bacon. . . .



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