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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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Archive for May, 2008

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05.05.08

Achatz: A Man of Taste

Bites: News and Miscellany


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Grant Achatz of Alinea gets the New Yorker treatment. For me, the most interesting part of this piece has nothing to do with the culinary stories. Rather, it’s the idea that in society we tend to treat authority figures, doctors in this case, with undue reverence and infallibility. If Achatz had listened to the surgeons who suggested cutting out his tongue in response to his cancer was the only realistic treatment, this story may have ended much differently. Instead, Achatz found an alternative treatment that, for now and hopefully forever, saved his tongue, and a chance at salvaging his taste.

This really illustrated the crux of what I’ve learned from working as a contributor to the Alinea cookbook with Achatz, his partner Nick Kokonas, and the whole team at Alinea: there is an incredible importance in being disciplined to challenge what’s been done before. It’s what separates Alinea from so many. And though it sounds like a simple formula, it’s really hard to do.

05.04.08

Tipping and the Back of the House

Bites: News and Miscellany


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Chris Borrelli had a good article in the Chicago Tribune last week about tips and how they get disbursed. I think the article made some great points, especially about what I consider an exploitative behavior of some restaurants which charge a percentage of the waiter’s tip to cover credit card processing fees, as if it’s the waiter’s fault the restaurant accepts plastic.

Assuming the restaurant doesn’t pay a flat processing fee to the credit card company, I might buy into the idea of sharing a percentage of the cost of a tip on an exceedingly large gratuity, since the restaurant would have to pay a greater processing fee without receiving any portion of the tip. Of course, I’d more likely accept that premise if restaurants started treating their waiters as real business partners and paid them full minimum wage.

One aspect that wasn’t covered in the article which I think bears some attention is the long simmering tension between the front of the house (i.e. the service staff) and the back of the house (the cooks and dishwashers etc), particularly in high end restaurants, which is often exacerbated by the tip system. More »

05.01.08

Eat This Art

Bites: News and Miscellany


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I stopped in at Artropolis, Chicago’s mega modern art fair at the Merchandise Mart last weekend. I documented as many food related pictures I could find. Interestingly enough, even though food is rising in prominence on our country, it seems the current generation of artists hasn’t really escaped the Claes Oldenburg/Andy Warhol aesthetic of depicting it. Enjoy this photo slideshow.

05.01.08

30 Seconds on Top Chef: Uncle Ben’s Rice Edition

Bites: News and Miscellany


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This just in: I will no longer be terrorizing Chicago’s Whole Foods’ Staff Any Longer

1 - Uncle Ben’s Rice quickfire challenge – Next week: Spam Throwdown

2 - I can’t figure out who’s bitchier in the quickfire judging, Art Smith or Padma

3 - Spike’s Mark Twain meets Marc Jacobs porkpie is totally hobo couture

4 - Richard, abusive to the fishmonger as usual

5 - 10 dollar budget at Whole Paycheck should cover one organic lime for each contestant

6- Dale buys sausage, making it three weeks in a row that no one heeded Paul Kahan’s lesson to make your own sausage

7 -Child labor, sweet.

8 -Nikki cooking Brussels sprouts for a kid friendly dinner. I’ve seen this movie before and it doesn’t end well. (I stand corrected.)

9 -Colicchio seems concerned that OSHA might bust Top Chef for child endangerment

10 - There’s a commercial for Step It Up and Dance on Bravo, and it’s really scary how much the host Elizabeth Berkley sounds like Padma, like they’re cloned from the same super-spokesmodel planet.

11 - Oh, god, Richard wants to make babies…if there’s a case for state mandated sterilization, I think this is it.

12 - Antonia, we…loved…your…whole wheat noodles…robot Padma’s batteries are running low.

13 - Marc. He gone. God the indignity, he’s drinking Michelob to drown his sorrow.

14 - Next week: the dumbest people on earth get talked in to letting Top Chef cater their wedding.


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