The trademark Stetson has been shelved, the tattoos are fierce, the black lacquered mod glasses and the red Chuck Taylor Converse shoes are bared, and tonight Chef Graham Elliot Bowles comes out swinging with a BYOB opening (a few days ahead of the June 2 expected opening) of his namesake restaurant (217 W. Huron) which finally honors his true personality.

I stopped in today to check out the space, and everything from the informal tea towel linens to the hammered copper sinks in the ladies bathroom look shiny and ready to serve as the backdrop of one of Chicago’s more exciting openings. The room is warm, elegant and mod, and doesn’t entirely reject luxury, in fact it could go either way.

Though don’t kid yourself about the formality, as Bowles remarked that they were thinking of hiding a flat screen TV behind the bar to show old WWF Wrestlemania tapes for the late night crowd. Appetizers are running $9-15 with entrees from $27-37. The menu features Bowles’ handwriting and personal sketches of his dishes.

Tune in for more in next week’s Newcity.