Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-settings.php on line 512

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-settings.php on line 527

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-settings.php on line 534

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-settings.php on line 570

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1199

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1199

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1199

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1199

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_PageDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1244

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1391

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1391

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1391

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1391

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_CategoryDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1442

Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class wpdb in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/wp-db.php on line 306

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/cache.php on line 103

Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class WP_Object_Cache in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/cache.php on line 431

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/query.php on line 61

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/theme.php on line 1109

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Comment::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/comment-template.php on line 1266

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Comment::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/comment-template.php on line 1266

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Comment::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/comment-template.php on line 1266

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Comment::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el(&$output) in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/comment-template.php on line 1266

Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class WP_Dependencies in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/class.wp-dependencies.php on line 31

Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class WP_Http in /home/mjnagran/hungrymag.com/wp-includes/http.php on line 61
Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
03.08.08

First Bite: Mercat a la Planxa

Bites: News and Miscellany

It’s a tough call on what was more surprising about my Saturday night…the fact that a 190 seat Michigan Avenue hotel restaurant run by a guy who spent the last few years building a culinary empire in Philly was mostly spot on in terms of service and food on a packed opening night, or that later in the night, some dude managed to play the Miley Cyrus song Best of Both worlds on the jukebox in a Greg Louganis super triple flip high dive of Logan Square dive bars without starting a fight. It turns out that it’s the former.

I’ve been very critical lately of restaurants opening, charging patrons full price and then providing shoddy service and half baked food under the auspices of being entitled to some kind of grace period or “soft opening”. I feel like if you’re gonna ask people for big time money, you better bring the big time performance.

I’ve also been critical of the whole celebrity chef phenomenon, whereby some carpetbagger cook who’s built a name and an empire for himself elsewhere waltzes in to Chicago to add one more restaurant to his bottom line. I’d much rather spend my money on a local chef, sweating it out at the pass, trading on his sweat and hard work, infusing his personality in to the cuisine.

So basically, the deck was stacked when I hit up Mercat a la Planxa in the Blackstone Hotel on it’s Saturday night debut, especially considering Chef Jose Garces built an empire in Philly, got nominated for a James Beard, and then stormed in to town.

Turns out Garces is Chicago born and a Kendall grad, and as a transplanted Detroiter myself, he’s actually more Chicago than I am. He was in the house, working the pass. Both he and the staff in the open kitchen (which features a sweet vintage hand cranked Berkel meat slicer) looked like they’d been doing this for years.

Décor:
Beautiful vaulted space with huge arched windows. Hexagonal patterns (inspired by the hexagonal shape of Barcelona’s market Mercat Boqueria) are echoed in everything from the sides of the entry staircase to the window etchings to the tile above the kitchen. Nice exposed bulb style drop lighting fixtures. My two female dining companions told me that the women’s restroom was as “dark as a Spanish prison”, and hoped for a little more lighting on future visits.

Food: Simple flat-top (planxa) grilled fare like head on prawns and meaty lamb chops with romanesco sauce were cooked to perfection. A ubiquitous tapas standard like Patatas bravas, or small crunchy potato cylinders gabled with smoked paprika mayo were spot on. Slow cooked pork belly with sherry glaze, green apples and truffle slaw was like an awesome Spanish gourmet riff on South Carolina BBQ

I also had my favorite new dish of the year tonight: Braised rabbit agnolotti with rosemary, truffle chestnut puree, and brandied cherries. I loved it so much, I almost ordered it for dessert. Super truffley creamy sauce, perfect pasta and tender rabbit…comfort food of the highest order.

Only real mis-steps: Baby squid ink pasta was cooked spot on, but the calamari on top was a touch over cooked. Black cod confit dish was undersalted, and the mixture of haricot vert, morcilla-potatoes and orange saffron emulsion undergirding it was a confused mess of flavor and texture. Out of 13 dishes we tried, this was the only failure.

Service: it seemed like there was at least one server or food runner for every single table in the house. No idea if it’ll stay that way, or whether it was just a smart opening night move to overstaff, but it worked. Plates and courses were delivered hot and quick and tables we’re getting turned like the teacup ride at Disney World (though we didn’t feel any pressure to relinquish our table).

When we left, we had a conversation with our valet while waiting for our car, and he knew as much about the food as our server. I’ve had a hard enough time getting valets to open the door for my wife, much less ever had a conversation about a restaurant’s food. It was uncanny how well he knew the menu and described the plates. An even nicer touch: they have a heated room on the side of the Blackstone that’s separate from the restaurant so you don’t have to wait in the cold for your car.

Conclusion:
I can’t wait to go back. I don’t think I’ve said this about a restaurant in the last four months. Usually, for me it’s one and done followed by a begrudging second visit. The menu is expansive without being intimidating, the dishes are creative and far elevated above tapas stalwarts like Emilio’s, Babareeba, etc, the prices are right (from $5-15 bucks for most items, with a few large portions of a la Planxa roasted meats topping out at $32) for the portion size, and the room is madly energetic.

Mercat a la Planxa, 638 South Michigan Ave., 312-765-0524

2 Comments on "First Bite: Mercat a la Planxa"

Lisa

I’ve been excited about this place and even more so when I saw the menu. I can’t wait to try the razor clams. If they’re anything like the navajas I’ve had in Spain they could turn into my new favorite Chicago dish. Pretty excited about the pimientos padron, too, but not sure if they’re the real deal or not.



Jim

We were also at Mercat for opening night, and had a similar experience. Great food, although some warning that the “patatas bravas” were something other than the big heap of spicy mayonnaise covered fried potatos I was salivating for would have been welcome.

The menu was a bit challenging to work through since its organization gave little help as to where be begin and end, but it holds many treasures that we will explore over time.

Agree on the pasta - amazing. I could see the kitchen from where I sat and as you said there has to have been at least one worker per table. Service was a bit spotty at the beginning, our first course came before the bread service, and there was a long pause between rounds one and two, but beyond that our server was great. She knew the wine list from top to bottom and led us toward a perfect bottle, while explaining in great detail the region it came from. She quickly and efficiently worked us through the menu and advised as to which combinations would work for various courses. We will certainly be back.

Most impressive, we arrived for our reservation spot on time at the height of the evening service and walked into a bar that was hopping. Yet, we were immediately greated, the person had taken the time to read my reservation comment that we were from the neighborhood and asked where we lived. We were taken directly upstairs and seated and our server was at our table within seconds. On their first night! This team knows what they’re doing.

The tab for the two of us, including wine, was $130.



Comments

Please Leave a Comment!




Please note: Comments may be moderated. It may take a while for them to show on the page.





Features/Archive
Podcast Interviews
Feeds
Everytime Hungry Magazine is updated, you can be notified. Just click on your preferred feed (What's a Feed?) below:

Chef Interview Podcasts Only

All Hungry Magazine Content

Theme By fruta planta