Monica Eng and Phil Vettel have a great story about Schwa’s last night and the goods on the impending reopening. Still, they don’t seem to answer the central question of their article (at least in a new way)…why did Michael Carlson walk away? The answer is basically the same from Heather Shouse’s article in Time Out: that he was stressed out and he wanted to take time off to be with his family. I’m betting there’s another story here that no one’s gotten to the bottom of….
Also, that being said, I’ve had Carlson’s food including the vaunted quail egg ravioli. He’s definitely a talent (I named Schwa, Best New Restaurant in Newcity last year), but I think his exposure has just as much to do with his punk rock nature. He paints everything as being on his own terms, which can sound like he’s charmingly independent, but I tend to think he’s a bit reckless.
I’m sure all of the other chefs who lost their jobs and had to put up with the chaos of working at Schwa wouldn’t say a bad thing because of their bonds and friendships, but I wonder whether it was any fun, not knowing what to expect from one day to the next? Not to mention, I wonder how Carlson’s father, Stan, the sole investor, enjoyed the ride? Who knows, maybe he made money hand over fist? Then again, fathers will weather the indiscretions of their children, but it doesn’t mean that these are proud moments.
For diners, it wasn’t always great shakes, either. Friends who dined in the last days of the restaurant told me that things were wildly inconsistent, even amongst the same dishes at the same tables. When you’re paying good money, you shouldn’t have to doubt what’s coming out of the kitchen.
From my own perspective, I definitely left messages for reservations on two occasions, once under a pseudonym and once under my own name and did not receive call backs. I bring this up not as a point of bitterness, but as a fact. I’m not a curmudgeon, but I expect some courtesy. If I made a res and decided not to show up and not tell the Schwa guys, I’m sure that wouldn’t have gone over well.
Finally, I don’t think we be should be spilling so much ink over Carlson and Schwa, now, when there are probably at least a handful of young innovative Chicago chefs toiling away, some barely making it, but conducting themselves with honor. We should be writing about those people.
Still, I’ve made my share of mistakes, and am still making them, so I hope Carlson’s learned how to manage things and that he comes back strong. I wish him luck and I hope that when I write about him next, I’m writing about the food, and not the latest hijinx.
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JB
Hi, I was fortunate to dine at Schwa in late September right before he closed, little did I know. I call him somewhat of a food renegade. In terms of his food, I think he takes all the post modern techniques and produces food that is really flavorful and approachable as compared to the “sacred temple of Alinea”(I am not knocking Alinea at all, its prices and food are just on a very high pedestal). His quail egg ravioli was incredibly decadent in its buttery broth. I think if you are a person who loves flavor but also wants to experience all the new post french cooking techniques Schwa is the place to go. It sounds like he has mellowed out a bit on being a renegade. I can extrapolate my own assumptions of his style, that he wanted a restaurant of his own personality, not a sleek, packaged, marketing machine but I am sure the pressures and practicalities of economics came into play which is probably what did him in because we are talking Chicago, Illinois not Paris or Barcelona.
I obviously loved his food, and I loved the small space, it made the whole meal so approachable but still edgy.
And if you didn’t get messages back I think it was probably due to lack of staff,etc, not that he felt like sticking it to his patrons. He has a lot of talent and quite frankly I give him a lot of credit for trying to do it his way. It is very hard to go against “the food marketing tide”.
I for one, I am really happy he is going back in the kitchen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
m
We called Schwa for a reservation sometime last fall.
The “kid” that answered the phone was rude and dismissive.
Barely trying to answer my simple questions.
Audibly annoyed that I was even interested.
I own and run my own restaurant and will, for one, never pursue Schwa’s food again. And, what’s sad is that I know they don’t care a lick.
Alejandro Ruiz
Well, actually I’d say that punk is synonymous with recklessness. It’s something that comes with the territory of “charmingly independent” sorts. Iggy Pop was not the type of guy you let house sit or Johnny Thunders. Let’s not even get into the low-hanging fruit that is Johnny Rotten. But they sure knew how to put on a show….before the wheels fell off at least for the last two. Iggy, however lives on.
Also, something that bothered me in that Trib article. Comparing that group of culinary all-starts to the 1927 Yankees was just sloppy writing. They’re not all dead for one, I would have gone with FC Barcelona in honor of Adrian Ferra, that lovable Catalan bastard. I mean, it’s unlikely that any American that cares about El Bulli would be uncouth enough to overlook the beautiful game. I’m only half-joking here.
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