02.01.08

Kevin, Goin’ to Restaurant Heaven

Bites: News and Miscellany

Chicago Magazine and the Trib both report the impending demise of Kevin restaurant.

Our man in Humboldt Park, Aamir Burki weighs in on the matter:

When my wife and I visited a then-new Kevin Restaurant in River North, we were initially pleased by the warm decor and comfortable service. Unfortunately, then the food started coming. Like the famous mad-scientist chefs of Chicago, Kevin performed feats of texture, flavor and innovation I’d never seen before. All the dishes seemed to be formed from water! The flavors were so subtle, delicate and wimpy that I actually believe they’d managed to create translucent sauces, foams and even flesh from the Lake Michigan water flowing from the kitchen tap.

As Kevin closes, I wonder, how did it manage for so long?

One Comment on "Kevin, Goin’ to Restaurant Heaven"

Barry Strum

The chef and the emperor’s tailor shared similar sensibilities



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