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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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Archive for July, 2007

07.31.07

Blood, Sweat, & Tripe

Bites: News and Miscellany


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Candied Cockscomb

At Hungry Magazine, we believe the only way to properly honor the sacrifice of an animal (outside of being vegetarian or vegan) is to consume the whole animal. With this in mind, we are very proud to present a “Back of the House” project photo-essay on Incanto Restaurant’s 4th Annual “Head to Tail” Dinner in San Francisco from photographer Michael Harlan Turkell. If you prefer video to static images, check the video that follows below.

A Note from Michael Harlan Turkell:

Restaurateur Mark Pastore and Executive Chef Chris Consentino of Incanto Restaurant, in San Francisco, serve offal meats in an effort to not only cut back on overall waste, but to cast off the notion that these once deemed “low-cuts” are inedible. Artfully using rustic Italian cooking methods and sourcing the freshest local ingredients Northern California has to offer, Cosentino draws inspiration from the likes of Fergus Henderson, chef at St. JOHN in London, and author of The Whole Beast, with the hope of bringing the same waste-not mentality back across the pond. Rather than allowing his patrons to think that it’s daring to eat lamb fries (testicles), Cosentino aims to convince them that offal ought not be discarded as refuse, but should take its place as highly regarded sustainable fare.

The Menu

Amuse bouche of duck fat fried rabbit ear with carrot aioli and chervil
plouche

Salad of crispy sweetbreads & warm beef tendon with chilli & mint

Terrina of lamb tongue & fries (testicles) with lamb’s tongue lettuce &
pickled grapes

Fish maw with chickpeas & agretti

Pork tripe, beans & blood cooked in vescica (bladder) with creamy polenta

Candied cockscomb with cherries & rice pudding



To see more of Michael Harlan Turkell’s images, check out here and here.

07.31.07

Sweet Something

Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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This month I sit down with Natalie Zarzour, Andersonville’s Sicilian pastry queen. Zarzour breathes life into cannoli at her shop Pasticceria Natalina located at 5406 N. Clark St.. In this podcast, we talk about how native Sicilians respond to her pastry, her love of Sophia Loren, and the struggle to achieve authenticity.

If you have Adobe Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player here: Natalie Zarzour Interview

07.19.07

Goin to the Dogs

Bites: News and Miscellany


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The man who launched a restaurant that molded some of Chicago’s and the world’s best culinary talent (Rick Tramonto, Gale Gand, Shawn McClain, Grant Achatz, Dale Levitzki, etc.) has washed up on the shores of Oahu. Former Trio owner Henry Adaniya has finally achieved his lifelong dream of opening a hot dog stand in Hawaii. He’s serving up a batch of kicked up hot dogs ala local fave Hot Doug sans celebrity names. If you’re planning on hangin’ ten in the Pacific any time soon, check out Hank’s Hot Dogs.

07.17.07

This American (plant) Life

Bites: News and Miscellany, Do I Need a Pastry Torch?: Kitchen Gadget Reviews


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Welcome to the jungle baby…err, Nagrant Family Farm.

I’ve killed more plants than a Detroit auto executive. Everything, from finicky herbal seedlings to hearty tomatoes, has met the reaper that is my green, or maybe more appropriately, gangrenous, thumb. I once grew the tallest plant in a junior-high biology contest, but only after my father introduced me to Miracle Grow, and I juiced that bad boy like an agricultural Barry Bonds. That was a lifetime ago. Last month, despite their legend for weathering biblical droughts, two cacti in my living room recently developed a feathery mold. More »

07.11.07

Au Revoir Ambria

Bites: News and Miscellany


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Indeed while our aldermen are still insufferable gas bags, Chicago is, for the most part, no longer windy, second or the hog butcher to the world. We’ve left those monikers behind, because of the one label that still applies. Chicago is now, and as it was in 1951 when Nelson Algren wrote his essay, a “city on the make.” More »

07.09.07

Waltzing Australia

Recipes, Travel


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If Americans think about the food of Australia at all, it probably doesn’t go much beyond Paul Hogan’s famous, “We’ll throw another shrimp on the barbie.” Well, they certainly have plenty of shrimp (or prawns as they are more likely to say down there) and even more barbies, but the country and its cuisine go far beyond that. Of course, there are the fabulous people, the fascinating scenery, the weird and wonderful wildlife, the glorious beaches and sophisticated cities—and those are all great reasons to go to Australia. However, I hope to convince that Australia is also a great dining destination. More »

07.06.07

Jerry’s Wicker Park

Bites: News and Miscellany, Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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Mindy Friedler and Mark Bires, owners of Jerry’s

Monday, July 9th, Jerry’s Wicker Park (or as we’re calling it: Jerry’s 2:Electric Bugaloo) opens. While owners Mindy Friedler and Mark Bires derisively refer to Jerry’s I as a “Super Subway,” their attention to detail—like using an iceberg and arugula lettuce blend for both crunch and flavor, smoking meats and fish in a log-burning smoker and whipping up homemade condiments like chipotle chutney—make Jerry’s a palace of sandwich craft. Located at 1938 W. Division St., the new place features a more sophisticated design, with handcrafted chandeliers made from serving spoons and a flagstone-style fireplace, a community gathering space and a few anticipated additions to the menu: plated desserts and American craft beers. Enjoy a photo slideshow of the new digs from photographer Lara Kastner.

I also sat down with Mindy, Mark, and their manager Uriah a few weeks ago to talk about the nuances of the old place and their hopes for the new one in this week’s podcast. If you have Adobe Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player here: Mindy and Mark Interview

Also, we debut a little interview video here at Hungry magazine (shot by Lara Kastner). Watch Mark Bires explain how Jerry’s got it’s name:

07.04.07

Magical Mystery Meat Tour

Bites: News and Miscellany


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Huitlacoche quesadilla, a funky food alternative

Despite Chicago’s ironclad foie gras ban, I’ve been able to keep my annual consumption of the engorged duck liver at its normal level. I indulged my once-a-year habit (last time I had it was May 2006 at Avenues) when I chowed down on a seared Hudson Valley lobe bedded down on honey and almond cake, and anchored with tossed, roasted Wisconsin strawberries, watercress and drizzled almond cream at Vie restaurant (4471 Lawn Avenue, Western Springs) on Thursday to celebrate my birthday. I’m sure as with any good illegal substance, there are many folks who started mainlining fatty lobes as if they were snorting golden bowls of Bolivian marching powder in conjunction with the ban. As for me, and I bet most other serious diners, it’s always been a respected luxury, which is one reason the ban is absurd. More »

07.02.07

Mon Ami Gabi

Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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Ambria closed on Saturday after a strong 27 year run. This podcast is a tribute to the chef who built Ambria, and who also brought us Spanish tapas at Cafe Babareeba and French Bistro at Mon Ami Gabi, Gabino Sotelino.

If you have Adobe Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player here: Gabino Sotelino Interview


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