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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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04.23.07

Your Tables are Ready

Food Literature Reviews


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In his brilliant essay, “The Critic as Artist,” Oscar Wilde points out that it is generally easier to write a wonderful critique of something you don’t particularly like, and even easier if the thing being reviewed is truly awful. Which is why reviewing a book I like makes me nervous. It really is hard to rhapsodize cleverly.

So I’ll start out with some simple gushing, and get it over with. I really love Filipe Fernández-Armesto’s Near a Thousand Tables. Subtitled A History of Food, this wonderful book is thoughtful, wide-ranging, iconoclastic, brilliant, elegant, and packed with fascinating, abundantly documented information.

Fernández-Armesto brings to the project some pretty impressive credentials. He’s a Professorial Fellow at Queen Mary, University of London, and a member of the Modern History Faculty at Oxford. His writing credits, thirteen books and counting, include Millennium: A History of the Last Thousand Years, Civilizations: Culture, Ambition, and the Transformation of Nature, and Truth: A History. So we’re talking major heavyweight.

The title of Near A Thousand Tables is taken from “Guilt & Sorrow” by William Wordsworth.

And homeless near a thousand homes I stood,
And near a thousand tables pined and wanted food.

But don’t let the grim verse dissuade you from reading this book. It’s actually an exhilarating race through the entire history of where food came from and what it means to humankind. It encompasses psychology, sociology, science, culture, literature, religion, and politics, along with its culinary history. Fernández-Armesto doesn’t shy away from anything, delving into everything from cannibalism to the raw food movement. (“Culture begins when the raw gets cooked.”)

This book is so rich in facts, history, and insights that it is difficult to even imagine where to begin. Of course, he covers the transition from hunting to farming and discusses the foods that have had the biggest impact on the planet (rice, wheat, maize, sugar, and so on). But it is the scope of the work, the passion, and the insights into the significance of food that elevate it. We can almost imagine him in a lecture hall, his voice rising with the heat of his argument, as he holds forth on the importance of some key point, such as in the chapter “The Edible Earth” when he writes about farming.

“Whether invented or evolved, the farming of plants did more, in the long run, to alter the world than any previous human innovation. The impact of the hunters, fishers, and stockbreeders of the last chapter could not compare—not on the landscape, or on ecological structures or even on diet. … Plants are 90 percent of the world’s food. Plant farming still dominates the world’s economy….We still depend on it absolutely. It is the basis of everything else.”

The author joyously explodes a lot of popular myths. For example: “The idea that the demand for spices [during the Middle Ages] was the result of the need to disguise tainted meat and fish is one of the great myths of the history of food. It is more likely that fresh foods in the Middle Ages were fresher than today, because they were locally produced, and that preserved foods were just as well preserved in their different ways—by salting, pickling, desiccating and conserving—as ours are in the age of canning, refrigeration, and freeze-drying (a technique which, by the way, was known in antiquity and developed to a high degree by Andean potato growers in what we think of as the Middle Ages).” Or “It was probably pigs and horses, not people, that took, to the New World from the old, the diseases that began the precipitate collapse of Native American populations” (he notes, as he explains why herding is more dangerous to humans than hunting). Or even, “More than 50 percent of those with afflicted hearts do not have high cholesterol counts.”

He worries about our relationship with food. He notes that, “The loneliness of the fast food eater is uncivilizing. Food is being desocialized.” He observes that the health-obsessed and food faddists share in common with cannibals the tendency to take their meaning from what they eat. He frets over what the microwave is doing to our dining habits, and opines, “Readers who could have Brillat-Savarin settle for the Williams-Sonoma catalogue.”

The book sweeps from “The Invention of Cooking: The First Revolution” to “Feeding the Giants: Food and Industrialization in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries,” scooping up “The Meaning of Eating: Food as Rite and Magic,” “Food and Rank: Inequality and the Rise of Haute Cuisine,” and “Challenging Evolution: Food and Ecological Exchange,” among other topics, whirling through the millennia, weaving together a tapestry of what food has meant to our world and what it means to us now.

This is not breezy writing. It is the kind of dense, rich, juicy prose that language arts majors relish. But if you love rich writing, as well as rich food, this book is a real treat.

It is not without its imperfections. Fernández-Armesto’s intoxication with language occasionally takes him over the top, as in the sentence where he describes people who regularly eat fish in the morning as “unremittingly ichthyophagous breakfasters.”

And the author is a bit of a snob, especially when it comes to Americans. He mocks the American working class of the early 1900s for relying on Duncan Hines’s guides to steer them clear of fancy food as they drive around the country. (Hey, buddy, what were workers in Europe eating in the early 1900s—and how many had cars?) I found a minor error in his assessment of the importance of cassava, which I attribute to his not knowing how widespread it is under different names. He gets a little silly in his discussion of what constitutes cooking (can chewing the cud qualify?). And he identifies the author of Frankenstein as Shelley’s sister, when in fact it was Shelley’s wife (but hey, he’s a historian, not a lit major).

When all is said and done, I find these flaws, however egregious they might seem in lesser hands, mitigated by the presence of so much erudition. There is almost no page of my copy of the book that doesn’t have underlining, stars, and arrows pointing to fascinating facts, wonderful turns of phrase, or brilliant insights. I have forgiven his few infelicities and am left with huge admiration for the vast majority of this great book.

2 Comments on "Your Tables are Ready"

Barry Strum

Oscar Wilde…such a big shot………..what did he know anyway??

Wonderful review



Cynthia

Thanks, Barry.



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