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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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02.22.07

Restaurant Michael

Restaurant Reviews


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Chef Michael Lachowicz

Restaurant Michael in Winnetka led me to coin a new phrase: haute comfort food. There was no ponzu sauce, Latin fusion, or edible menu. What they offered was simply expertly prepared French food. That doesn’t mean you don’t find the occasional shiitake mushroom or a bit of fabulously enriched polenta, but the focus is not on absorbing as many international influences as possible. It’s French. And for those of us who grew up in an age when fabulous French food was rare enough that we considered it a treat, sometimes that’s what we want: French food. I love the cutting-edge places, but sometimes it’s good to just sink into a meal of perfectly cooked French classics. Of course, being new to French food won’t preclude you from enjoying this place. It’s just that, for people who want hip and edgy, this isn’t it. It’s comfort food for Francophiles.

I’m not alone in thinking this place is pretty good. It was selected as one of Chicago’s 20 Best New Restaurants in 2006 by Chicago Magazine, and most other critics have left seeing stars—at least three, in most reviews.

Only a few blocks away from New Trier High School, just south of the corner of Winnetka and Green Bay Roads, the latest home for Chef Michael Lachowicz’s cooking is a charming little boîte that has been decorated with subtle, comfortable elegance in beige and tan accented with dark wood, white trim, and white tablecloths. There are maybe a dozen tables and five booths in a smallish room that can be further divided for private parties by a row of curtains. There is a small service bar in one corner, but not a bar “area” (hence, it is advised that you not arrive early, as there is nowhere to hang out before your reservation time).

When I arrived, I was greeted warmly and shown to my table. The waiter felt certain I’d been there before. I thought he looked familiar, too, and we discovered it was because we recognized each other from Le Français. He is one of those who came with Michael after his stint at the illustrious Wheeling restaurant. I figure it’s always a good sign when the people who work with you want to stay with you.

Shortly after my dining buddy arrived, we were served an amuse bouche, a plate of warm gougères that oozed melted gruyère when we bit into them. I thought they just might be the best gougères I’d ever had, so I felt the evening was off to a good start.

Warm, brown rolls were served with fragrant, unsalted butter. C’est bon, ça.

We were pleased to see that the wine list offered a fair number of wines by the glass. I ordered champagne and sipped it as I reviewed the menu. There were all the usual suspects, the things one expects in a French restaurant: fois gras, lobster, duck, lamb, venison, rabbit, cod. We decided to split a warm “pithivier” (in quotes because it’s a savory spin on a dish that is traditionally sweet) of duck. This brought us a delicious duck “meatball” baked en croûte and served with a rich, dark Madeira sauce with slivers of shiitake mushrooms and pistachios. I enjoyed it tremendously, but I was not elevated to another plain.

Elevation was accomplished by the next course. I had the classic salade Lyonnaise with frisée, lardons of bacon, brioche croutons, and red wine, shallot and mustard vinaigrette with soft ripened chevre. After my second bite, I declared, “If this were the only thing they made, it would be worth coming back.” The dressing was flavorful and covered every leaf, but without any excess. The lardons were chewy, the croutons, meltingly rich, and the chevre, soft, flavorful, and a perfect complement to the other elements of the salad. My friend had a salad of red oak baby Lolla Rossa lettuce and French endive with Champagne herbed vinaigrette, which she said was perfectly dressed.

For my main course, I ordered the duo of roast loin and rack of Australian lamb with ratatouille goat cheese gateau. Oh boy. The loin was incredible, a perfect medium rare, and of exquisite flavor—and the rack of lamb was even better. This was absolutely sensational, the quintessential lamb dish. The minted jus was dotted with a few slim, miniature green beans and carrots. A buttery purée of pomme de terres (when they taste this good, it seems wrong to call them just potatoes) was served with the entrée.

My friend had no problem polishing off her roasted stuffed saddle and braised leg of rabbit with mustard-scented sauce Bercy. She said she liked the stuffed saddle better than the leg, but I couldn’t verify her comment; neither of us was sharing, as we were both so enamored of our selections.

Servings being rather generous, we were both pretty dubious about our ability to eat dessert, so we decided to split something once again. We chose the apple tart with caramel and nutmeg ice cream. It was a good choice. Light and not overly sweet, the tart was a well-rendered classic. The caramel sauce was rich and flavorful, and the nutmeg ice cream was wonderful but subtle.

Orange-scented chocolate truffles came with our coffee, and were really positively the last thing we had room for. As we asked for the check, we were already planning our next visit. I definitely want to have the salade Lyonnaise again. I also want to try the pan roasted foie gras medallion with foie gras strudel “Perigord” (yeah—the suburbs can serve foie gras).

The service was good, though it was obvious that some of the wait staff was more experience than others. However, the variation was just in degrees of polish, not in enthusiasm, and nothing marred the evening.

A “no corkage fee Tuesday” offers a cost-effective option for those who would like to keep prices down (or for those who have a rare wine that just wouldn’t appear on any restaurant wine list). There is a small parking lot, and street parking is abundant, but there is also free valet service, which is appreciated when weather is inclement or shoes are uncomfortable.

Michael is a wonderfully comfortable little restaurant that offers splendid renderings of haute and nouvelle classics. It’s not the fanciest place you’ll ever eat, but it’s also far from being the costliest. In fact, prices are quite reasonable for the quality of food, with entrées running $27–$29. It’s a real treasure, and I hope it’s there for a long time.

Michael
64 Green Bay Road
Winnetka, IL
Michael via the web

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