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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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Archive for November, 2006

11.29.06

Cutting Edge

Bites: News and Miscellany


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People approach Alinea restaurant’s newest serveware piece

The lobby of the Museum of Contemporary Art looks like the set of the fictional “Saturday Night Live” show “Sprockets.” A gaggle of Dieter clones, men and women clothed head to toe in beatnik black, are being briefed on their responsibilities for hosting tonight’s Food and Wine entertaining showcase.

The rest of the foyer is a chambered nautilus of rope line enclosing a group of broad-shouldered men and impossibly tall and coltish women. Sprinkled in among the Rush Street glitterati are amply girthed men and sturdy women, intrepid foodies, whose only interest in glamour skews toward the culinary creations waiting on the chef’s tables a floor above. Tonight they will witness the birth of a serveware piece. More »

11.27.06

Salt of the Earth

Food History


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Though historically, pepper may have been viewed as the spice of life, salt was life itself. Cassiodorus, a Goth administrator in the 5th century AD, wrote, “It may be that some seek not gold, but there lives not a man who does not need salt.” Every cell and all the fluids of the body contain salt. All neural activity requires sodium, and salt is essential to muscle movement. In arid lands, salt was and is as important as water for survival. (In fact, one is in greater danger of dehydration for want of salt than for want of water.) And animals are as dependent on salt as humans. More »

11.13.06

A Singular Gastronomy

Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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A scene from the movie Blow between Johnny Depp (George), who plays a drug dealer, and his father Ray Liotta (Fred):

FRED
I just don’t know what you’re thinking. I don’t understand your choices. You know, the police are looking for you.

GEORGE
I know. I’m great at what I do, Dad. I mean, I’m really great.

FRED
Let me tell you something, son. You would have been great at anything.

The thing I’ve learned in the last year of interviewing food personalities is that great chefs, like Depp’s character, would be great at anything they do. Great chefs don’t bow to economic pressure and buy substandard product, poorly sauce plates, or overcook protein when the weeds are high. They adhere to their principles and an idea of quality no matter the consequence.

Great chefs work clean, treat the mincing of rosemary, the segmenting of citrus, and the sweeping of the floor with the same importance as writing a menu and inventing a new dish. Great chefs are always in the moment. Chef Rick Tramonto once told me that Charlie Trotter’s philosophy was that “If everyone in the restaurant came in and did one thing better than they did the day before, then you’d have 50 people doing one thing better each day.” That’s a powerful message and it’s ultimately the hallmark that great chefs strive to do each day better than the one before. Grant Achatz is one of those chefs.

Achatz’s restaurant Alinea was recently named the #1 restaurant in America by Gourmet magazine for many of the reasons outlined above. In this podcast Achatz talks about what it means to be committed to a vision of constant evolution, perfecting something, throwing it away, and starting again. We also talk about customer expectations, why molecular gastronomy isn’t a meaningful label, how family meal or “comida” is different for the Alinea staff, and of course the most important question, what is Achatz favorite Potbelly sandwich?

If you have Adobe Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player here: GrantAchatzInterview.mp3

11.13.06

Inside the Alinea Kitchen

Food Production


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You can also go inside the Alinea kitchen with a photo slideshow from Hungry photographer Tuan Bui.

A Note from Tuan:The Alinea kitchen staff are a marvel to watch. I visited the kitchen during prep time, when the staff was getting the food ready for that evening’s dinner guests. I can’t come up with a metaphor fitting enough for how each of the chefs moved with such purpose and precision, whether it be slicing and carefully coring heirloom tomatoes or paring cinnamon sticks down to exact length and diameter. What struck me was the quiet in which they worked - no orders had to be given, no questions or instructions yelled across the kitchen - each person knew exactly what they needed to do for the day.

In the middle of this, Grant Achatz would seem like just another cook if you did not already know his face beforehand. For much of my time there, he was hunched over a cutting board, delicately slicing the seeds away from the pulp of a horned melon. As fast as his fingers worked the knife - three careful flicks, a scrape of the pulp over the board, then onto the next seed - I did not see much more than a few ounces of pulp accumulate over the course of an hour. It was this sort of deliberate intensity, despite the seeming futility of the task at hand, that was imbued in his entire kitchen staff.

11.09.06

This Cow Don’t Moo

Restaurant Reviews


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I like it animal style–my burger that is.

Whenever I get off the plane in L.A., I go straight to the nearest In-N-Out Burger and order up a mustard-cooked beef patty with cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickle, extra “spread” and grilled onions, or as it’s billed on In-N-Out’s “secret menu”–”animal style.” (The secret menu, which is actually available on the Web site, is the worst-kept secret since Bill Clinton and Monica Lewinsky’s White House tryst.) More »

11.06.06

Tapeworm Tour 2006

Restaurant Reviews


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lumpia mini-mart

Shanghai Lumpia from Uni-Mart

For the last three years, I’ve woken up on an October Sunday to constant wailing, throbbing drumbeats and clanging cowbells. Somehow my realtor forgot to mention that my condo was located right off the Chicago Marathon course. More »

11.01.06

Red Hot

Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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maneet

Chef Maneet Chauhan - photo credit: Tuan Bui

40 men were interviewed, but only she was hired. Chef Maneet Chauhan is burning it up with a new fusion of spicy Indian and Latino fare at Vermilion restaurant. In this podcast, Chauhan talks about Indian food in America, where she likes to eat in Chicago, and how to pair wine with Indian food.

If you have Adobe Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player here: ManeetChauhanInterview.mp3


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