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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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Archive for October, 2006

10.30.06

Matador

Profiles in Food: Interviews


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Andrew Zimmerman plates Octopus Terrine

Restaurant kitchens are the secular hells of our society, where oppressive heat is the devil. Yet heat is also the inescapable philosopher’s stone that transforms food through the alchemy of cooking, and on this Saturday night, where a flashing LED sign on Western Avenue registers 92°F, the Del Toro kitchen in Wicker Park swelters like an August afternoon in a Madrid bullring. More »

10.26.06

Riding the Pumpkin

Faster than Rachael Ray: Product Reviews


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pumpkin

There’s something about the burnished hues of fall and the crisp smoky air that signals a coming of age for the earth and channels a separate peace within me that none of the other seasons accomplish. A season of refuge, it’s the first opportunity to hunker down against the razor chafe of Chicago’s winds. No longer celebrating the freshness of spring or luxuriating in the summer sun, I urgently seek warmth and sustenance in hearty braises like winy rosemary-perfumed pot roast or chocolate-dusted short ribs. More »

10.24.06

Getting Your Goat

Food History


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goat

Goat is among the most commonly eaten meats in the world and was among the first animals to be domesticated, along with (though possibly predating) sheep and dogs. (New archaeological discoveries regularly cause “firsts” to leap frog back and forth over each other, with the pig possibly having been earlier, depending on which end of the date ranges domestication actually occurred, as well as on definitions of domestication. But suffice it to say, goats were among the first, going back to around 9000 BC.) More »

10.24.06

Cabrito Asado(Oven-Roasted Young Goat)

Recipes


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-1/2 baby goat, cut into parts (legs, side and breast)
-1 Tbs. oregano
-1/3 cup light olive oil
-1 large onion, coarsely chopped
-2 medium green peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped
-2 jalapeño chilies, seeded, deveined, and chopped (optional)
-1 tsp. ground cumin
-1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
-3 cloves garlic, minced
-4 cups of canned, peeled Italian tomatoes with juice (approximately 2-1/2 cans, 14.5 oz. each)
-salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.

Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper. Put the pieces in a large roasting pan and cover (foil works if you don’t have a lidded roaster). Bake meat for two hours, turning and rearranging the pieces after one hour. While meat cooks, prepare the sauce (salsa).

Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the onion, green pepper, jalapeños, cumin, pepper, and garlic, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are slightly wilted. Add the tomatoes (cut tomatoes in half if they are large) and simmer for 5 minutes. Season with taste with salt and pepper.

When initial two-hours are up, sprinkle the meat with the oregano, then bake uncovered for another 20 minutes.

Finally, pour the salsa over the goat meat and continue baking, uncovered, basting occasionally, for another 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then carve and serve. Serves 10-12.

Notes: Goats get tougher, stringier, and more strongly flavored as they age, so you want to make sure you get a young goat for this dish. It might be okay to stew a slightly older beast, but roasting needs a little tenderness, so be sure you specify baby goat. The recipe above assumes that your half goat will be about 9–11 pounds. If your goat is much smaller than that, you can adjust quantities downward. If it’s much larger, you probably want to stew it, because it will likely be tough. In the U.S., goat does not generally appear in the mainline grocery store meat case, but it can easily be obtained from ethnic grocers (Hispanic, Mediterranean, Eastern European, and Indian in particular), and can also be ordered on the Internet.

10.23.06

Counter Agriculture

Profiles in Food: Interviews


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covelli

Chris Covelli of Tomato Mountain Farms

The last time I was awake at 4a.m. I was drunk. This time, it would have helped. Rousing myself at that hour, driving in a half-bleary state and shooting across the inky blacktop of the Kennedy, I was sure that the thin threads of my neural network had finally snapped. More »

10.19.06

Nuts About Pecans

Food History


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pecan

Hot dogs and baseball are familiar icons, but if you’re talking about true all-Americans, you might want to include the pecan. Pecans are indigenous to North America—and the fossil record seems to indicate that pecans were here before humans were. More »

10.18.06

Testing My Good Nature

Bites: News and Miscellany


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sunflower market

I fetishize grocery stores like Imelda Marcos reveres shoes. For Carrie Bradshaw on “Sex and the City,” it might be Manolo or Jimmy, but for me, it’s Fox and Obel. Grocery shopping is my compulsive athletic competition. More »

10.16.06

What’s Your Beef?

Food History


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“Eating beef,” one Japanese historian wrote, “is a sign of an advanced state of civilization.” I’ll buy that. But then I’m a big fan of beef—and the evidence shows that I’m not alone in this. More »

10.11.06

Reflections in the Pond

Restaurant Reviews


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north pond

Photo: Tuan Bui

I’m no culinary Luddite. In the last year, I’ve eaten and relished bacon ice cream, tortilla foam, Rice Krispies with strawberry Pop Rocks, pineapple sponge, Dover sole with dehydrated banana powder and a chocolate-raspberry-and-foie-gras milkshake. More »

10.09.06

All In A Day’s Work

Profiles in Food: Interviews


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michael maddox

Luxuriant plants dance in the stream coming from the hose trained on them. The tall, sandy-haired farmer’s son who is doing the watering strides gently but confidently among the tidy rows of healthy herbs, vegetables, fruits, and flowers. However, this farmer’s son is not attired in overalls. Instead, he sports a spotless, white jacket with a line of embroidery that identifies him as Michael Maddox, chef/owner of Le Titi de Paris, the celebrated French restaurant in Arlington Heights. More »

10.03.06

Always in Good Taste

Food Production, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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cinnamon

The heady fragrance of black pepper and cinnamon began to tease my senses while I was still a block from the store. As I entered the attractive Evanston shop, a rich, almost intoxicating blend of aromas enveloped me, drawing me into the warm, woody interior, towards the walls and shelves of jars filled with tantalizing delights from the four corners of the earth. Before me was an astonishing array of lovingly prepared, freshly ground herbs and spices—from ajowan seed to za’atar. No wonder Julia Child loved this place. More »

10.02.06

Liquid Candy Corn

Faster than Rachael Ray: Product Reviews


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jones candy corn

I have no idea why, but I love processed food substitutes. True, I’ll lose my gourmand card for this, but buttered popcorn jelly bellies (along with Pepperoni Pizza Hot Pockets) are my dirty, as in Christina Aguilera dirty, secret. So when I see that Jones Soda has released their Halloween flavors, and I’ve got a shot at liquid candy corn, I’m psyched.

The color of the juice has a Mountain Dew yellow glow, and after a sip, there’s a deep carmel flavor followed by a taste of vanilla, like tasting your way through the stripes on the candy. It’s satisfying, but not quite a perfect substitute. On the other hand at 130 calories for a 9 oz can, it’ll definitely jolt your brain and rot your teeth out, and really what more can you ask from a soda?

There’s a bunch of other flavors out there including Spider Cider which has a nice apple orchard zing. You can score these limited brews at your local Target, probably through Halloween.

10.01.06

Cantu Can Do

Restaurant Reviews


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surfturf

One Incarnation of Surf and Turf, Moto Style

As I headed for Moto, my expectations were high, which worried me a little. Granted, Chef Homaro Cantu had been getting a lot of notice, but I have discovered over time that often, hype is just “sound and fury, signifying nothing.” More »


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