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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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Archive for March, 2006

03.31.06

Craft Dinner- Sans Kraft™

Recipes


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mac cheese

In our fast paced, never-a-spare-moment lives, having a recipe in your repertoire to bring everything back to home-base can be a life saver. Everybody knows the iconic image of the blue and white box with yellow writing. It’s been in everyone’s pantry at one time or another. When the moment arises when you can slow things down and look past the convenience of dehydrated cheese-food, home made macaroni and cheese is a dish that always satisfies. More »

03.30.06

Heaven Help Me, I’m Addicted to Food Porn

Cookbook Reviews


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I’ve finally been tapped to contribute to a cookbook. I feel a bit like the lonely relief pitcher stepping up to the mound to save the game.

But in this case there is no Steinbrenner sending a memo down from the luxury box and no Ozzie to give me the nod on my way out of the bullpen. A higher power called me to the stove. The call came down to the field like so:

More »

03.27.06

It Takes Matzo Balls

Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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Brad Rubin

No gutbombs or paperweights allowed. You need fluffy matzo balls, the kind that suck up rich chicken broth. You also need freshly steamed moist corn beef, peppery handcut pastrami. Throw in a syrupy frothy egg cream, a couple of crusty charming countermen, deep vinyl booths, and a healthy dose of chrome, and you got yourself a old style delicatessen and late night diner.

A student of the legends like Katz’s, Langers, and the Rascal House, Bradley Rubin, the owner and visionary behind Chicago’s soon to open Eleven City Diner (March 30, 2005, 1112 S. Wabash ) knows this. It’s why the only sleep he gets nowadays is a few winks curled up on the diner’s leather banquettes shrouded by a thin blanket and guarded by carved art deco wood patterns.

Rubin’s devoted his days (and his nights) to the details, whether it’s installing an old Bastian Blessing soda fountain or pinching the kreplach right. Rubin is a firebrand, slinging stories like a good counterman slings corn beef, and he’s devoted to keeping alive the community and spirit of the old coffee shops, late night diners, and jewish delicatessans with Eleven City Diner.

In this week’s podcast, we talk to Rubin about the old deli legends, whether you need Brooklyn water to make a good bagel, the elements of a great deli/diner, and the perils of entrepreneurship.

If you have Macromedia Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player here: Bradley Rubin Interview

Go inside Eleven City Diner with a photo slideshow from Hungry photographer Tuan Bui.

03.22.06

Drinking, Always in Season

Bartender, Pour me a Drink: Alcohol and Spirits


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green drink

Drunken Chef that I am, I like to invent cocktails in my spare time. I’m always looking for something to suit the weather or the season. Here are four of my favorites to carry you through the next year. As always, use moderation, or at least stop drinking when you forget where you are. More »

03.20.06

Good Eats

Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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Alton Brown and a Dinosaur

Alton Brown attacks - Photo by Tuan Bui

We don’t swoon at the feet of food celebrities. In fact, everytime Giada De Laurentiis pops up on our tv screens with her carefully orchestrated cleavage and soft focus kitchen, we feel a little ill. It’s not that we don’t think she can cook, because we know she can. It’s just that it is such an overt attempt at capturing the 18-43 year old hormonally challenged male demographic. It’s food porn where the food isn’t even in the money shot. Besides, everyone knows that young males are watching Stone Cold Steve Austin throwing down on WWE Raw with bikini clad ladies dancing in the backround.

That being said, we were at the Home and Housewares show at Chicago’s McCormick Center last week when we ran into Alton Brown of Good Eats. He is clearly a food celebrity, but a celebrity who is teaching America about the science behind our favorite foods. He tackles the food we cook everyday and demonstrates the best techniques for success. It’s an idea we love.

In this week’s podcast, we talked about how Americans don’t break down their own poultry anymore, why Alton thinks Shun knives are the best bang for the buck, and in light of his own personal health scare, what he’s doing to promote healthy eating. We also caught some of Alton’s cooking demonstration at the show, and feature the question and answer session that followed. Find out what new shows the Good Eats staff has planned.

If you have Macromedia Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player here: Alton Brown Interview

You can also view a slideshow of the Home and Housewares show, including pics of Mario Batali, from Hungry magazine photographer Tuan Bui.

Alton has also put out a couple of great cookbooks. You can order them here.

03.17.06

James Beard in the House

Bites: News and Miscellany


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James BeardWe hope we won’t see Mario Batali in a vintage Valentino dress and matching clogs this May.

That’s when the culinary equivalent to the Oscars, the James Beard awards, are handed out. Nominations have just been released and include some our favorite folks:

Rising Star Chef

Graham Eliot Bowles - Avenues

Chef Bowles did one of our first podcast interviews. You can listen here.

Best Chef Midwest

Shawn McClain - Spring, Green Zebra, and Custom House

We also interviewed Chef McClain a few months back. You can view a slideshow of the master in the kitchen and listen here.

Best New Restaurant

Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas-Alinea

You can read our review here.

Best New Webcast

Don Genova - Pacific Palate

We are proud to say that Don is an associate of ours over at the Culinary Podcast Network. The culinary podcast network is a group of some of the best culinary podcasters on the internet.

In addition to those folks, some of our other favorites who got nods include: Rick Bayless, Charlie Trotter, Thomas Keller, Brian Polcyn and Michael Ruhlman (Their new Charcuterie book is awesome), Suzanne Goin, Mario Batali, Mark Caro of the Chicago Tribune, Carol Mighton Haddix and the whole Chicago Tribune food section, Everest, and Spiaggia.

You can read more on the awards at: James Beard Foundation.

03.15.06

Zen Master

Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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chef noah bekofsky

Chef Noah Bekofsky - Photo by Tuan Bui

Chef Noah Bekofsky’s first food memories were a macrobiotic diet of brown rice and miso soup, and he didn’t start eating meat until he was 14. Chef Bekofsky of Aria restaurant in Chicago’s Fairmont hotel grew up in the hippie confines of Eugene, Oregon, where it was all about fresh and organic. Rest assured, the man who was weaned on greens can cook a mean lamb chop. He’s also a well centered philosopher of life and food.

In this week’s podcast conversation, we explore the politics of the plate, talk about big and painful tattoos, about how to raise children with a healthy food consciousness, and for good measure, a bit about Tiger Woods and the Chicago Cubs.

If you have Macromedia Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player here: Noah Bekofsky Interview

You can also view a slideshow of the Aria kitchen from Hungry magazine photographer Tuan Bui.

03.13.06

Sir! Pork Belly, Sir! Hooah!

Everybody Loves Pommelo: Noteworthy ingredients, Recipes


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seared pork belly

My cozy domain was invaded by a former U.S. marine and his platoon of wife and twins and an onslaught of infant paraphernalia last saturday. I generally like to spend Saturday doing a lot of work around the couch, but this weekend it simply wasn’t to be.

There would only be one way to overcome the initial shock and awe of this incoming army of in-laws… More »

03.13.06

Pan Roasted Chicken Stock

Recipes


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I owe this stock to Bruce Sherman, the chef of North Pond in Chicago. Not necessarily the recipe, but the technique. He was classically trained by the French, and thus a total stickler for “by-the-book” cooking. He really made me appreciate how the most miniscule of details can affect how a dish tastes in the end. When It comes to making a good stock you really have to pay attention to the details, after all you are working with a limited amount of ingredients. More »

03.13.06

The Cure That Finally Made Robert Smith Smile

Recipes


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This is a quick cure and meant more or less for marinating meat rather than preparing it for a long curing process or for smoking. This mixture will work well on chicken, pork and duck. The ratio of salt to sugar is pretty much 50/50 because you’re really just trying to drive flavor into the meat rather than completely pull moisture out. This recipe is enough for about 3 or 4 pounds of meat. More »

03.13.06

Braised Pork Belly in Hard Cider

Recipes


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2 lbs Fresh Pork Belly (3 lbs, if bone in)
A scant amount of vegetable or olive oil
2 Carrots, peeled and medium diced
2 Stalks of Celery, medium diced
1 Large Onion, peeled and medium diced
2 Bay Leaves
4-6 Sprigs of Thyme
2 12oz Bottles of Hard Cider
1 Qt Chicken Stock (Roasted if you can get your hands on it)
2 Cloves of garlic

More »

03.11.06

Fast, Cheap, and Good

I Can't Believe it's Fast Food?, Restaurant Reviews


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In n out burger

I never met a Whopper, a Chalupa, or a Slider that I didn’t like. When it comes to fast food, I am either fearless or profoundly stupid. I am allergic to nothing. Add this to the fact that I have a low tolerance for alcohol and a fairly casual attitude about what constitutes a proper meal, I am a cheap date. More »

03.10.06

The Spiceman Cometh

Restaurant Reviews


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This article first appeared in the Chicago Journal

Schwarma

Schwarma and Hummus at Couscous.

You’d think a restaurant named Couscous would serve the best couscous in Chicago. Frankly, we have no idea. In two years of visits to this storefront oasis of Middle Eastern cuisine located on a stretch of Taylor Street famous for Italian joints, we have been too busy sampling the other seventy tasty dishes. More »

03.09.06

You Know, It’s Hard Out Here for a PEEP®

Food History


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peep floating

I like to bite their heads off first.

When my nose gets near the sweet tang of artificial yellow sugar crystals, my Ozzy Osbourne instinct takes over, and it’s lights out for the PEEPS®. It’s cruel I know, but like Ted Nugent points out in his practical cooking tome, Kill It and Grill It, when there’s an overpopulation, animals face an even crueler fate of starvation. More »

03.08.06

The Drunken Chef Returns: Green Tea Cheesecake

Recipes


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cheesecake

My friend Delilah threw a dinner party on a recent snowy Chicago night, and I found myself wondering what the hell I would bring. I nominated myself for dessert, but felt daunted by the task of having to cook for a group of people I had never met before. To top it off, I also needed something that would travel safely in the car.

I had to cross my fallback Crème Brulee off the list. Carrying an armload of ramekins up a few flights of stairs didn’t seem like a very good idea. I’m a clumsy little man and I imagined a hospital trip involving shards of porcelain in uncomfortable places. More »

03.06.06

Gourmet Super Models

Bites: News and Miscellany


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Gourmet ModelsThe super models at Conde Naste are running out of work. Since all the hot celebrities like Scarlett Johansson, Kiera Knightley, Terri Hatcher, et al have gobbled up the covers of Glamour, Vogue, and Vanity Fair, what will the bony chain smoking slinky set do? Move to the food magazines of course. More »

03.03.06

Funeral for a Friend

Food History


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Ms. Potter Palmer
Portraits of Mrs. Potter Palmer, One of the Berghoff Restaurant Auction Lots

It was a funeral for a friend. Sepia rays pierced the windows and golden tones from gilded chandeliers shone on postcards of the past. Wooden chairs and tables were piled near the old bar like freshly cleared storm debris. Chicago’s 107 year old Berghoff restaurant is now closed.

Two days after the closing, collectors of memorabilia gathered once more under the oaken wainscoting and plaster murals of the 1893 World’s Fair. This time, the gathering was not to dine on schnitzel and hoist steins of lager, but to view the available lots for tomorrow’s auction of restaurant fixtures and photos.

Sullen collectors filed past tables of memorabilia, as if paying last respects at an oaken casket. Some stopped and fingered photos or clutched at old beer bottles as if they were patting their departed loved one on the hand, or pulling at a clutch of rosary beads for one last time. More »

03.03.06

Old School

Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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Paul Virant Makes Sausage
Chef Virant Works his Grandfather’s Sausage Stuffer

Paul Virant, of Vie restaurant in Western Springs, is a new school chef focusing on old school ways. Lots of chefs talk about cooking in season, using local products, and cooking from the heart. Many of those chefs are just throwing out buzzwords. Chef Virant, on the other hand, is working hard to source midwestern ingredients, preserving and canning fruits and vegetables, curing meats, foraging for mushrooms, and digging fresh ramps. He believes in the purity of food, and celebrating the simple bounty of the earth. When we spoke during this interview, I asked him who he’d invite to a dinner party he was throwing. His response, Jimi Hendrix, legendary French Chef Fernand Point, and famed ecologist Rachel Carson. Yep, an ecologist. Paul Virant is the real deal.

If you have Macromedia Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player here: Paul Virant Interview

You can also view a slideshow of Vie from Hungry magazine photographer Tuan Bui.

03.01.06

Oh My, Is That a Full-Tang?

Do I Need a Pastry Torch?: Kitchen Gadget Reviews


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knife with chopped asparagus

In every cook’s arsenal lies one trusty tool for every mission. More often than not, that tool is the knife.

Sleek, sharp, and deadly.

Norman Bates showed us how useful it could be in the shower. Men all over the world cringed uncomfortably at Glen Close’s deft handy work in Fatal Attraction. An no one could forget how our beloved Julia Child demystified haute cuisine in the 60’s by showing men and women everywhere how to properly wield a sharp French blade. More »


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