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Hungry Magazine - All Things Tasty
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Archive for January, 2006

01.30.06

The Sausage King

Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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The many faces of Doug Sohn
Doug Sohn Photo

If Dorothy Parker, the irreverent wit of the Algonquin round table, and Elvis Costello, the British rocker, conceived a love child, Doug Sohn would be their offspring. Sohn, the owner of Hot Doug’s restaurant in Chicago, wears thick black square frame glasses and peppers everything he does with a tiny bit of his Ginzu sharp wit. When I asked him to reveal something intimate, he said, “I don’t like to wear pants, I mean if it weren’t mandated….I just don’t care for them.” Convention is not Sohn’s game. For this week’s podcast, we sat down with Doug Sohn at Underbar in Roscoe Village.

In our podcast (What is a Podcast?) Sohn discusses Chicago’s Foie Gras ban, his love of the Chicago Cubs, the genius of the three minute pop song, and how he brought duck fat fries to America.

If you have Macromedia Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player here: Hot Doug Interview

Read the companion article we wrote below.

01.30.06

The Sausage King Continued…

Profiles in Food: Interviews


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Doug Sohn Photo

If Dorothy Parker, the irreverent wit of the Algonquin round table, and Elvis Costello, the British rocker, conceived a love child, Doug Sohn would be their offspring. Sohn, the owner of Hot Doug’s restaurant in Chicago, wears thick black square frame glasses and peppers everything he does with a tiny bit of his Ginzu sharp wit. When I asked him to reveal something intimate, he said, “I don’t like to wear pants, I mean if it weren’t mandated….I just don’t care for them.” Convention is not Sohn’s game. More »

01.27.06

McArabia:Tastes Like Chicken

I Can't Believe it's Fast Food?, Restaurant Reviews


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Fortress Stadium, Lahore

McArabiaLahore is widely accepted as the cultural and Epicurean capital of Pakistan. This ancient city boasts restaurants that blend the intense flavors of subcontinent cooking with cosmopolitan flair. Restaurants populate all areas of the city, no different than in the states. Another commonality - the ubiquitous Golden Arches of McDonald’s. A few days into our stay, my wife and I began to notice the McDonald’s a few blocks from my aunt’s flat. We eyed it, and joked about visiting. It taunted us with the promise of processed foods and perhaps a nostalgic taste of home, which we longed-for, despite the excellent Pakistani food we had sampled so far. So, like good Americans, we went. More »

01.26.06

When the Moon Hits Your Eye…

Restaurant Reviews


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Vito Nick Sign

It’s tough to find a good pizza in Chicago. Sure, we’re internationally known for the deep dish pie, but any honest Chicagoan knows that the deep dish pizza was invented for the Michigan Avenue tourist set. The loaded gut bombs are fish stories that soccer moms and Nascar dads can bring back to their co-workers, friends, and family. “Man you should have seen this pizza, it had two pounds of cheese and was as big as your head.” This is fine for out-of-towners, but if you live in Chicago long enough, you know if you eat more than one or two deep dish pizzas in a year, you will start looking like one. More »

01.22.06

A Podcast Postcard (of a chef)

Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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Graham Elliot Bowles Photo This week we sat down with Graham Elliot Bowles of Avenues restaurant in Chicago’s Peninsula hotel. Chef Bowles has worked at some of the finest restaurants in the country including the Mansion on Turtle Creek, Charlie Trotters, Tru, and the Jackson House Inn. Chef Bowles earned a nod as one of Food and Wine’s best new chefs of 2004, and since coming aboard at Avenues restaurant, he has earned 4 stars from an assortment of food publications.

Our podcast (What is a Podcast?), turned into a jam session, with Chef Bowles riffing on music, food, art, and politics. We discussed why a chef has to leave his greatest hits behind, the wider accessibility of fine dining, how constraints actually breed creativity in cooking, and the chef’s tattoo collection.

If you have Macromedia Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player here: Graham Elliot Bowles Interview

01.19.06

Tradition

Grape Pun: All Things Wine


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Beaujolais Bottle with applesI started drinking in elementary school. My tipple of choice was a Beaujolais Nouveau. Unlike most young drinkers, I was lucky enough to avoid the Wild Irish Rose, Mad Dog 20/20, and Boone’s farm, though I would revisit these malted fruity classics in college.

It is not that I was a sullen young drunkard, but that my father, an amateur wine buff, allowed my brother and I a small sampling, usually during Thanksgiving dinner. We would trade our taste impressions across the table. At the ripe age of 10, unaware of phrases like “tannic”, “leathery, or “hint of cassis”, I would usually declare the wine to be “bad grape juice”. More »

01.17.06

Scores on Doors

Bites: News and Miscellany


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Health Code Violation SignYou can always count on Chicago for a twisted food law. The city council is now considering a Scores on Doors program for restaurants. Health code scores would be posted on the doors of dining establishments. I am undecided as to whether this is a good idea, but I always assert that a little dirt may be a sure sign that good food is in store. Either way, a walk through Chinatown under such a proposed law might make George W. Bush feel good about his Yale report cards. Mayor Richard Daley doesn’t like it, so like a fresh plate of Foie Gras, the law is probably dead on delivery

01.17.06

It’s Better to be Lucky Than Good

Faster than Rachael Ray: Product Reviews


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Pita Bread PhotoI have seen little girls, armed with only a 100 watt light bulb and an Easy Bake oven, whip up baked goods far superior to anything I have ever baked. So, recently, when I decided to make Falafel sandwiches stuffed with Tabbouli and a drizzle of Tahini dressing, I passed on making my own pita bread for the occasion.

Chicago Cubs fans know what I mean when I say my experience with store bought pita has been disappointing. It has been 97 years since the Cubs won a world series, and it may be 97 years until I find a store bought pita that isn’t dry, brittle, thin, or bland. Until now… More »

01.11.06

Smooth Like Butter

Podcasts, Profiles in Food: Interviews


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Chef Ryan Poli Butter in the West Loop was recently named one of the best new restaurants in America by Esquire magazine. Ryan Poli, the 28 year old head chef, has apprenticed in some of the finest restaurants in the world including Le Francais, The French Laundry, and La Broche in Madrid, Spain.

In our culinary podcast (What is a Podcast?), Ryan and I talk about what his last meal would be if he were on death row, what he learned from Thomas Keller at the French Laundry, what it’s like to face the prospect of cooking dinner for Wolfgang Puck, Jean Banchet, Eric Ripert, Christian Delouvrier, Dominique Tougne, and Sebastien Canonne, all on the same night, and more.

If you have Macromedia Flash installed, you can play the file right on this site, below, by pressing the play button. If not, download the file here and play it on your PC or on an MP3 player: Ryan Poli Interview

View the companion article we wrote, recently published in the Chicago Journal: Blue-Collar Butter

01.09.06

Goodbye Trio

Bites: News and Miscellany


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Trio DishAccording to Dish, Chicago Magazine’s electronic Newsletter:

“After 12 years of ruling the North Shore, Trio (1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston, IL; 847-733-8746) will close at the end of February. “It’s time for me to do it,” says Henry Adaniya, the owner, who will focus on his restaurant consulting company. “There is sadness because I’m so connected to the place, but I need to move on. Things change, and I’m a big person for change.” The restaurant’s last day is tentatively February 25th, but Adaniya is planning a larger closing gala in the days following. “I really want to see if I can put something big together,” he says. “We really want to go out with our heads held high and have a celebration.””

Trio launched the careers of culinary luminaries Gale Gand, Rick Tramonto (Tru), Shawn McClain (Spring, Green Zebra, Custom House), and Grant Achatz (Alinea).


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